Ingredients needed
Equipment needed:
3 pounds pure
16-ounce glass measuring
vegetable shortening
cup
17 ounces
2 plastic or
extra-light olive oil
stainless-steel spoons
12 ounces
2-quart stainless-steel
safflower oil
saucepan
8 ounces canola oil
2 8-quart stainless-steel pots
3 pounds goat
4-quart stainless-steel pot
or cow milk,
12 ounces (312 g) pure
Molds (Vinyl window
sodium hydroxide (lye)
expanders work
1 ounce (28.4 g) borax
Plastic ladle
1/2 ounce (14.2 g) white
sugar
Paring knife
1/2 ounce (14.2 g)
glycerin
Digital Scale
Plastic wrap and
newspaper
Glass candy thermometer
Plastic spatula
Silicone bakery paper for
mold liners
Spray-on corn oil to
lubricate mold liner
Putty knife
Eye dropper to measure
essential oils
Blender
Preparing milk
Two important procedures must take place to "prepare" milk for
soapmaking. First, it must be pasteurized. Commercial milk has
already been pasteurized; raw goat or cow milk can be pasteurized
by slowly heating to 155°F (68°C), holding at that temperature
for 1
minute, then covering and allowing to cool. Second, it must be frozen
and then thawed before use. Freezing increases its stability and makes
it less vulnerable to the ravages of the lye. Pour into freezable
containers (not glass), leaving 1/4 empty for expansion. Freeze until
solid, then thaw out the day before using.
1. Observe soapmaking safety recommendations by wearing safety
glasses and rubber gloves at all times during the process. Prepare
your work area, laying out newspaper and making sure all ingredients
and equipment needed are within reach.
2. Melt the vegetable shortening in an 8-quart pot over low
heat.
3. Weigh out liquid oils carefully on a digital scale; add
to the
shortening. Heat until shortening is completely melted, then
immediately remove from heat. Set aside until step 9.
4. Fill your sink with cold water. Add 4 to 6 trays of ice
cubes.
5. Put the cold milk into a 3- or 4-quart stainless-steel pot.
Carefully
place into the ice water. Stabilize the floating pan by placing several
plastic cups filled with water around it.
6. Using the digital scale, carefully measure 12 ounces of lye into a
16-ounce glass measuring cup.
7. Very slowly pour the lye into the cold milk, stirring constantly
with
a heavy-duty plastic spoon. This process should be done slowly,
spanning no less than 15 minutes. Pouring too quickly will scorch the
milk, rendering it useless.
8. It's important now to gauge the temperature of the lye/milk
mixture
so that it does not drop below 80°F (27°C), and to keep stirring.
Remove from the cold-water bath as soon as the lye and milk are
combined. The milk will turn a bright yellowish color if the process
has been successful; if unsuccessful, it will congeal into a
custard-textured mass.
9. Over low heat, reheat the oils to a temperature of 125°F
(52°C).
Remove from heat.
10. Slowly pour lye/milk mixture into the oil. Add the borax,
sugar,
and glycerin. Stir constantly, being careful not to splash any on your
skin. You will probably notice the lye/milk mixture refusing to join
with the oils if you stop stirring. Be patient.
11. The blender is an invaluable tool for making milk-based
soaps
from this point on. It forces the lye/milk mixture and the oils to join
together. Use a plastic ladle to scoop evenly mixed amounts of the
mixture from the pan into the blender. Fill the blender halfway, and
secure the lid carefully before switching it on. Blend for 1 minute,
while stirring the remaining contents in the pan at the same time. The
liquid in the blender will become a lovely pale cream color.
After 1 minute, pour the contents of the blender into another 8-quart
pan. Now you will need to stir both pans and run the blender--you
may want to employ a partner. Repeat the process with the remaining
mixture until all of the original mixture has been blended.
12. Quickly wash out the first sauce pan, dry it well, and
repeat the
whole process. It is during this second blending that you can add
fragrance or essential oils, or specialty ingredients such as herbs or
grains. You will now see little or no separation of the oils from the rest
of the mixture. It will have thickened up somewhat, but even if it
seems a little thin, it will still be ready to pour. If it seems too thin,
you
may want to repeat the blending process a third time.
13. Pour mixture into prepared mold and screed the top surface.
(Pull
the flat edge of a large putty knife or spatula across the entire surface
of the mold to even out the mixture.)
14. Allow the liquid to sit uncovered and undisturbed in a
draft-free
area. After 12 hours you may notice sweatlike beads on the surface.
This occurs occasionally and is nothing to worry about. Wipe off
those that don't evaporate on their own after 24 hours.
15. Cut into bars after 24 hours, then allow cut soap to remain
in the
mold for another 24 hours, or until it is solid enough to hold its shape
when removed. Allow bars to cure for 6 weeks in a dry, cool room.
Cover lightly with plastic wrap to protect from dust.